By Catherine on Thursday, 27 September 2007

After a final morning listening to the dawn chorus from the serenity of the hammock room at Ontorongo Expeditions lodge it was unfortunately - sob sob - time to head back to reality in Iquitos.

By Catherine on Wednesday, 26 September 2007

We finally got our opportunity today to see how our legs fared at sea level, after our twelve days at altitude, when we hiked for six hours to see one of the last remaining ceiba trees in the area around the lodge.
The lowlands sections, particularly with the heat and almost 100% humidity, were reminicient of Hinchinbrook that I walked in easter this year with a fabulous group of friends from work.

Probably the most interesting and special finds for the day was the hummingbird´s nest f ... Read More »

By Catherine on Tuesday, 25 September 2007

Yes that is the head of a live anaconda that the dancer is swallowing into her mouth!

By Catherine on Monday, 24 September 2007

Since this clearing was done by hand it will apparently regenerate in 7-8 years once left to "rest", despite the exposure of the frgile forest floor soils. The lodge is working with the local villge which owns and cleared this land to establish fish farming instead as a source of protetin and income.

By Catherine on Sunday, 23 September 2007

Now was that a jaguar or anaconda skin, a yellow-footed tortise, a dolphin skull, a skinned crane, a live monkey or some CITES Appendix 1 Listed firsh fillets that you wanted me to pick you up when I am at the Iquitos farmer´s market this morning? The exploration of the local "fresh produce" markets was an interesting lesson in the cultural differences in broad attitudes towards fauna conservation between Peru and what we generally experience in Australia.

The hustle and bustle of ... Read More »

By Catherine on Sunday, 23 September 2007

...drifting along dipping your toes in the mighty Amazon

By Catherine on Tuesday, 18 September 2007

There was a last final challenging creek crossing as we left camp and then a long walk out to Llamac where we were collected to return to civilisation

By Catherine on Monday, 17 September 2007

With a rest day in such a spectacular location what is a crew of weel worn trekkers to do?

Fish, eat (lots of scrumptious) food, and with the crew occupied with sudoku, get into a bit of mischief with some circus tricks courtesy of Sara...and of course eat more food!!!

And corrupt a donkey or two with bec...

By Catherine on Sunday, 16 September 2007

It fell all night, but surprisingly snow was only to be found in and around our little camp area - strange!

Today we also encountered our first grove of Quenua trees (Polyepis sp.).
Found up to 4600m altitude, are claimed to be the highest naturally ocurring tree in the world. In the Huayhuash, there has been significant clearing to make way for pasture.

By Catherine on Saturday, 15 September 2007

It was a late start this morning after a big night Kel’s belated birthday celebrations. The crew certainly seemed to be having a slower start after quite some indulgence in the local brew. Over breakfast and final packing, as we enjoyed the warmer temperature associated with lower altitude (I was only wearing two of my five layers that I normally started the day with) and sunny, clear skies, we were joined by some of the local children.
Marayka, Kel, and Bec spoilt them with some of the colouring books, sparkling ... Read More »

By Catherine on Friday, 14 September 2007

It was a steep, scree-laiden, and oxygen-deprived climb to San Antonio Pass at over 5000m, but what a view once we got there.....

By Catherine on Thursday, 13 September 2007

The common Quechua name of this rare specimen is qualla-qualla (scientific name - Stangea henricii). It only grows above 4700m in poor rocky soil where no other vegetation will grow. It was encountered alongside a glacial lake on the way to Punta Cuyoc (5000m according to the lonely planet guide), one of the few places where you can find this plant.      

             &a ... Read More »

By Catherine on Wednesday, 12 September 2007

Ahhhh a rest day! After finally getting the chance to clean ourselves up the previous afternoon, we decided with the spare time on our hands and after five sweaty and muddy days trekking, our clothes were certainly overdue for the same treatment!

By Catherine on Tuesday, 11 September 2007

After five days since we last saw formal facilities, many cold days and nights, followed by a warm, dusty day walking there was one thing we were looking forward to - a long soak in warm water! We stripped off our multiple layers of trekking gear, changed into out togs that seemed way too little cloth given our location and slid into the very warm water to defrost!

Personally when I had heard "hot-springs" I had envisioned rock pools, so I was a little disappointed in the cement pool like in ... Read More »

By Catherine on Monday, 10 September 2007

We were given two choices of route today: a shorter day with a lower pass (Punta Carhuac 4650m), or a higher pass (4800m) which would extend the day by a few hours. Despite having suffered the consequences of altitude sickness and/or adjustment to the local food for the past 24 hours (in addition to the flu and laryngitis I already had), I am not one to shy away from a challenge and elected to take the route with the high pass. I did not regret that decision for one minute. Although, I will admit that I was quite relieved when Zac, our ... Read More »

By Catherine on Saturday, 8 September 2007

I spent last Thursday and Friday in anticipation, frantically collecting and packing things of the expedition, and hoping that the threatening flu didn´t take hold. Unfortunately when I woke up in Sydney Saturday morning after a late flight from Brisbane not only had the flu set in but my voice had gone! It is still yet to return, but at least for the moment it is largely concealing my poor attempts at Spanish ()!

I´ve done my fair share of long haul flights, but I must admit ... Read More »

By Catherine on Tuesday, 21 August 2007

Last Tuesday evening, over 60 people gathered at the Mt Coot-tha Botanic Gardens Toowong in Brisbane to celebrate rainforest ecosystems; learn more about the specific challenges facing the fauna of the Amazon and their habitats; and lend their support to my participation in the group of seven incredible women undertaking the fundraising expedition to support establishment of the conservation and wildlife release reserve in Peru.

Aila Keto, Australia's leading spokeswoman for rainforest conse ... Read More »